Wishing UK Bodice Construction
I’ve been working on this bodice for Ariel quite a while over the last few days. I wouldn’t say I’m an expert pattern drafter, but I wouldn’t say I’m a beginner. Still learning. I thought I’d share my experience here [on my personal blog] since it’s a bit more of a “me figuring stuff out” rather than presenting costume stuff that’s almost done. IE, enchanted sea blog.
So, here was my first draft of the pattern, it turned out pretty well I think! It might be hard to see, but I had to pinch it in at the front and at the lower sides. I studied the photos of operafantomet's Wishing gown to get the correct number of bodice panels and location of seams.
Keep in mind it’s just a muslin, no boning! :) (can you tell I have a hard time showing unfinished products??? since they’re not perfect/finished??? but I figured it might help some people out or just be interesting to those who construct clothing…)
(I have slight padding underneath the bustle area to mimic a bustle being there). I followed the real wishing gown seams, where the faux vest actually spans across two of the front pieces at certain points. I always thought it was it’s own piece connected via seam, but it’s actually just stitched on top of the bodice, it looks like…
So, I loved the back, but altered the bottom sides and center front slightly in the seams.
Here’s the same muslin mockup, but altered:
Here you might be able to see what I mean about the vest
That is larger than the center pieces; it just goes over it.
The back didn’t need altering, but the sides did, which is what I’ve shown up there ^
Then, it was time to make the paper pattern… I only did slight changes like extend out the parts over the shoulder where the sleeve will be attached. And added small allowances for when I serge all the edges of the pieces.
Duck Cotton Mockup
I took this pattern, cut it out of thick duck cotton, and serged the edges. Then, constructed it:
I haven’t purchased the final zipper yet, and this was the longest I had in my stock pile (it’s an inch or two short there at the bottom in the bustle area).
It’s hard to tell from the front (I forgot to take a side photo) but I might need to nip it in just a teeny bit more in the front, under the bust. But, before I make any changes, I’m sending this off to Ariel for a fitting :) which is what will give me the best idea of if I need to tweak it further.
It’s always difficult to try and mimic the final product in a mockup. For the finished product… I’ll have a few layers of less stiffer cotton for the lining, and the fashion fabric is a weight that can stand on its own (not too thin, doesn’t need extra lining/interfacing in certain areas). Also, it will have boning to shape it even more properly. There will be very slight give in the seams.
So, a muslin mockup is too thin and stretches too much (won’t be as restrictive as the real deal). The duck cotton gives a better idea since it’s thick - gives more of the idea of the “structure” almost as if there’s boning), but it’s also stiffer (zero give) than the real deal. I usually have more success with the duck cotton since the seams don’t “give”. It also allows me to work with one layer, not 3 to 6 layers like in the real deal.
In other words, I’m far too much of a perfectionist. Yet I don’t believe humans will ever be 100% perfect, so I just strive for the high 90’s. I’m excited to see how it looks on a real body and will be even more excited if I don’t have to alter it much more :) One can hope, right? But most things need slight changes for that excellent fit.